simple is beautiful
New York Daily Photo: Hallmarks & Earmarks
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Tuesday, 12 August 2008

Hallmarks & Earmarks

Welcome to Fu Kee Chinese Restaurant at 128 Lafayette Street. When it comes to Japanese or Chinese food, nearly everyone appears to be an authority in this city. We forever hear the popular refrain - "I know a great place for Chinese" or perhaps "I know where to get the best sushi." So, given that many of you have heard these types of assertions ad nauseam, I will make no grandiose claims about this place, only that it was recommended by a Chinese woman who knows Chinese food, has eaten in many other Chinatown restaurants and this is her favorite. She assured me that this place had all the earmarks of an authentic noodle house - the large tacky, framed, illuminated nature photo, outdated photos of obscure celebrities - and of course good food. 
Like most of Chinatown and its denizens, this place is quite utilitarian. No doting on patrons, snobbery or false pretenses here. Sodas are served à la can and if it is busy, you may find yourself sharing a large table with strangers.
They understand the hallmarks of a good business, stripped of any frills. A good meal for a very competitive price - you can't beat Chinatown for pricing or value. So here's to hallmarks and earmarks ...


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